At first glance, it’s business as usual in Dadaocheng, Taipei’s oldest district — but over the past few years a slew of exciting new concepts have popped up in the historical Japanese-era shophouses lining the streets. Look past the Chinese apothecaries and dry goods wholesalers, and you’ll see what the buzz is about. We’ve collected our favourite spots, old and new, for a day in the district.
See this
Back in the day, Dadaocheng’s claim to fame was its lively tea trade – so a stop at one of its remaining tea shops should be on your itinerary. A favourite is Chen Wey Teahouse (), situated in one of the most historic shophouses along Dihua Street. Here, the amiable Mr Lu will introduce you to a wide variety of Oolong brews, and if you’re lucky, paint you a personalised calligraphy banner to bring back home.
Stop by Museum 207 (also known as the Dadaocheng Museum, ) for a wildly interesting deep dive into Taiwanese popular culture. Housed in an old pharmacy, the building is worth a visit for its beautiful terrazzo floors alone. Exhibitions change every few months, and previous themes include Taiwanese terrazzo works and the history of Taiwanese gifting culture. Don’t miss the rooftop, which boasts fantastic views of the district.
With its cutting-edge interior design, Sunrice Yehjinfa (葉晋發本厝, ) is somewhat exemplary for Dadaocheng’s new appeal: this family-run rice mill has been in business since 1923, but recently underwent a sophisticated makeover transforming the heritage building into an award-winning retail space. Alongside more than ten varieties of rice, you’ll find a wide range of Taiwanese condiments like soy sauce and vinegar on its timber shelves. All products are of high quality and beautifully packed, making this a perfect place to pick up a souvenir or two.
Technically not located in Dadaocheng, but worth a short detour is the Ri Xing Type Foundry (), Taiwan’s largest and only remaining traditional letterpress foundry. Its collection spans multiple fonts, sizes and character systems, adding up to a total of more than 10 million lead character pieces. All pieces are handmade and make for a uniquely personal gift to bring back home.
Eat here
Tucked away in the back-building of a stately 3-part mansion, Peacock Bistro () has been luring foodies to the area for several years now. On its East-meets-West menu, you’ll find creations such as risotto with water chestnut and pork belly, and pomelo and tangerine salad with deep-fried shrimp rolls – the latter being a popular street-side snack among residents in the area. Following the “going local” trend that is all the rage in Taipei’s dining scene these days, 90% of the ingredients are sourced from organic farms around the island.
An old shophouse in one of the districts narrow lanes is the last place you’d expect to find authentic Italian cheeses, but Man Mano () sells just that. After studying the art of cheesemaking in Japan and Italy, Taipei-born Isabella Chen moved back to her hometown to open this small artisan cheese lab specializing in Italian cheeses like ricotta, burrata, and mozzarella. You can watch the master work her magic in the open kitchen and sample the fresh cheese on a tasting platter or in a range of salads.
For an afternoon pick-me-up, opt for some classic Chinese snacks at Hoshing 1947 (). Hoshing has been a household name for confectionary treats for over 70 years with a shop in Taipei’s Nanmen Market, and now the brand has branched out into a much more contemporary spot on Dihua Street. Their steamed rice cakes are both delicate and delectable, and the traditional recipes are tweaked to appeal to a modern palate. A small tearoom is tucked away in the back of the store, making it a perfect spot for a late-afternoon break.
Drink here
Danish craft beer brewer Mikkeller () has played a huge role in Dadaocheng’s renaissance. Housed in a three-story historical building, this spacious bar mixes Scandinavian cool with Taiwanese touches (think cold brew tea on tap and night market nibbles as bar snacks). Currently, only a few Taiwanese beers grace the chalkboard menu, but with 24 beers on rotation—most flown in directly from Copenhagen—you’re bound to find a brew that fits your palate.
The district isn’t exactly known for its vibrant nightlife scene, but man-about-town Dave Chen (who grew up in the area) aims to change that with Lok Hue Hng (). This cosy, neon-lit bar stays true to its roots with a drink list featuring local beers and a small selection of expertly crafted cocktails, all with tea as a common denominator. The ‘Oriental Lover’, made with tea-infused rum and osmanthus syrup comes highly recommended, as does the Black Tea Gin & Tonic.
For more gin, head to Ginspiration (), an intimate bolthole on the third floor of Fleisch restaurant. The mixologists behind the bar are gin connoisseurs through and trough and will be able to whip something up according to your preferences using one of the many gins on the shelves. If you don’t know what to choose, the negronis are a solid choice.
Buy this
1 An ‘A ma bao’ (阿嬤包, translated as Grandma bag) is the humble Taiwanese market bag found on wet markets, scooter handles and aunties’ arms all around the island. Originally from Tainan, these bags are cheap, colourful and come in many different sizes. You’ll find them on display at several stalls along Dihua Street.
2 Wooden cooking utensils from Yong Xing (永興農具工廠), a classic kitchenware workshop on Dihua Street. This shop started selling farm tools almost 100 years ago and now sells all kinds of ‘Made in Taiwan’ kitchen utensils — think cast iron skillets, hand-carved wooden cutting boards, bamboo dumpling baskets and wooden plates in all shapes and sizes.
3 Soap from Da Chun’s Soap (大春煉皂), a family business that has been producing soaps since 1950. Known for their iconic smiling moon logo, these soaps are part of Taiwan’s collective nostalgia. Over the years, the company has modernised its concept, and its flagship store on Dihua Street now stocks a wide range of personal care products — all beautifully packaged and perfect for gifting.
Stay here
Located at the beginning of Dihua Street, OrigInn Space embodies everything that makes this part of town so delightful: it’s youthful, innovative, and proud of its rich heritage. Housed in a historic Japanese-era building, its friendly owner Harvey has combined contemporary coolness with old-time charm: most of the original terrazzo floors and walls can still be seen, while many of the internal ceiling beams have been removed to create heaps of space.
The ground floor plays host to a concept store and cafe, with large shelves packed with an expertly curated collection of goods from around the globe: woven baskets from Africa, Japanese ceramics and state-of-the-art coffee paraphernalia. A large communal table invites guests and staff to connect with each other, preferably over a coffee from their 1960s Italian espresso machine.
Upstairs, each of the four guest rooms is uniquely designed and packed with character — think iconic Scandinavian interior pieces, retro record players (pick your records from a large collection downstairs) and screen-print posters from around the globe. Some rooms come with private bathrooms and large stone bathtubs, but all of them are exceptionally comfortable (albeit somewhat noisy, so bring earplugs).
Find available dates and rates for Originn Space Taipei
NB: Part of this article was published in the February 2018 print issue of Travel + Leisure Asia, titled ‘The New Old Taipei’.
